2014(e)ko abuztuaren 13(a), asteazkena

Kosovo- Albania EUSKARAZ

Jendearen aholkatutakoari kaso gehieegi egin gabe, hegoaldera bidean Kosovo eta Albania gurutzatu nituen. 

Bi herrialdeak eta batez ere Albania, bidaia honetako tokirik interesgarrienak izan direla esango nuke. Toki behartsuak izanik errekurtso exkaxak dauzkate eta lurra euskal herrian duela 50-60 urte lantzen zen modu berean (asto eta mandoen laguntzarekin baliatuz) egiten dute. Lotako toki lasai eta izkutua bilatzea etzen erreza,  jendea goizean eguzkia ateratzen zen unetik iluntzerarte lanean aritrzen baitzen. Halere baimena eskatuta ez nuen arazorik izan eta batek baino gehiagok gonbidatu ninduen beraien etxean lo egitera.

Atenasera iristeko presak bultzata nahi baino azkarrago igaro nituen bi herrialde hauek baino zihur nago etorkizunean itzuliko naizela toki zoragarriak baitira.

Ona hemen bertako bideoa:


kosovo albania EUSKARAZ from lander on Vimeo.

Kosovo- Albania ENGLISH

Despite many people advising me against, I went through Kosovo and Albania on my way south, glad I didn't listen to them as they have been the most interesting countries of the trip so far.

The reason why I found them so interesting is because the way they live, which I thinks is very close to the way that my parents’ generation lived during their childhoods in the Basque farms. The lack of agricultural machinery means that most of the work is done manually or with the aid of horses and donkeys. It was common to see young children looking after cattle while adults cut and pilled grass on the fields.

 Putting the tent without being noticed was virtually impossible as there would always be someone working nearby, luckily people were very hospitable and whenever I asked permission to pitch the tent  I had always been welcomed.

I was in a bit of rush to get to Athens so I didn’t spend as much time as I wanted but hopefully there will be a next.

I want to thank Jetmir and Alban for allowing me a space for the tent and treating me for a lovely dinner.

Video of Kosovo and Albania:

kosovo albania ENGLISH from lander on Vimeo.

2014(e)ko abuztuaren 6(a), asteazkena

Serbia ENGLISH

Cycling in bad weather was something I didn’t enjoy so much in Bosnia, luckily as I neared the Serbian border the sun made its appearance. Serbia, once the most powerful country within Yugoslavia, had to endure few international sanctions in post war times. These led the country to a difficult economical period, 20 years on, many foreign companies are investing and the economy is slowly gaining the strength it once had.

Soon after entering country, the idea I had about the country being flat quickly disappeared, I rode through some beautiful woods and hilly farmlands until I reached Lazarevac, a small city near Belgrade where my friend Suzana was waiting for me.

 Trefalt family took me in like another member, Suzana had everything planned so I didn’t miss any of the main sights of Belgrade, every morning we boarded the busy bus to Belgrade and when returning home Suzana’s mum would have a traditional dish ready to recharge batteries. After meals we enjoyed sitting around the sofa chatting and drinking Turkish coffee with her family.

When I was about to leave Lazarevac, one of the fiercest storms I’ve ever seen hit the area, trees went down and roofs took off like it where made of paper. I was lucky to be at home and not camping somewhere in the countryside. The storm was followed with a 24hr blackout (only two months earlier Serbia had endured the worst floods in recent history). Thankfully the storm went away as it came and the following days after double checking the weather forecast I said goodbye and started heading south on my bike.

As I cycled I pondered whether I should go through Kosovo or Macedonia, in Serbia everyone warned aabout the dangers of entering Kosovo but the funny thing is I had similar warnings before entering Serbia and all I could find was nice people willing to help. Near the city of Krusevac I did a quick search in warmshowers and found a cyclist called Momir, I sent a very last minute request which he immediately accepted.

Momir is not the average cycle tourist, he self-discovered cycle touring and have gone from touring with a 5 people tent and a hammer to a really lightweight set up. When I met him he just returned from a 2000k tour around Albania, Kosovo and Macedonia (an incredibly brave thing to do as most Serbians don’t dare to cross the border into Kosovo). After hearing his interesting tales from the road I decided to continue towards Kosovo…

PS. I’m currently in Greece with Ane, we’ve been busy visiting friend and family, will try to bring the blog up to date ASAP.




2014(e)ko abuztuaren 5(a), asteartea

Serbia EUSKARAZ

Iepa,

Bosnia gurutzatu ondoren Serbiara iritsi nintzen. (Yugoslavia garaian kideen artean boteretsuena izan zen arren, gerra ondoren zigor asko jaso zituen eta  bertako ekonomiak beherakada handia jasan zuten. Zorionez  bertako eskulan merkeak  atzerriko inbertsio ugari erakarri du eta pixkanaka gauzak hobetzen ari dira.) Baso eta landa aldapatsuak gurutzatuz egun pare batean nere aspaldiko laguna den Suzana-ren herrira, Lazarevac-era iritsi nintzen.

Trefalt familiak beste kide bat bezala hartu ninduten beraien etxean, Suzanarekin egunero autobusa hartu eta Belgradoko inguruak goitik behera ezagutzeko aukera izan nuen. Etxera itzultzean berriz eta  bere amak egunero bertako janari tradizionalen bat  prest izaten zuen eta denak mahai inguruan eserita Serbia eta Euskal herriari buruzko hizketaldiak izaten genituen.

Hiru egun ondoren beraien etxetik abiatzeko puntuan nitzela  izugarrizko ekaitza izan genuen,  zuhaitzak errepide erdira erorita, etxeko teilatuak haizeak eramanda… aurten eguraldia bere onetik aterata dabilela dirudi, duela bi hilabete izugarrizko uholdeak izan baitzituzten. Ekaitzaren ondorioz ia 24 ordu egon ginen argindar gabe. Hurrengo egunean ekaitza baretu ondore ondo deskantsatuta eta norabide garbirik gabe martxan jarri nintzen.

Hegoalderuntz nijoala warmshowers bidez kontaktatu nuen Momir-ekin,  Krusevac-eko hirian bizi den txirrindularia, segituan gonbidatu ninduen bere etxera. Momir ez da bidai eroso eta errexekin konformatzen den tipoa. Ezagutu nuenean Albania, Kosovo eta Macedonian barrena 2000km eginda bueltatu berria zen. Gehienei nahiko normala irudituko zaizue bidai hau baino Kosovo eta Serbiarren artean oraindik izugarrizko tentsioa dago eta jende gehiena ez da muga gurutzatzera ausartzen, izugarrizko adorea behar da berak egindako bidaia egiteko. Momir-ek bere izaera jator eta irekiari esker,  arazorik ez baino lagun berri mordo bat eginda itzuli zen bidaiatik.

Bere bideko kontakizunekin animatuta Momir agurtu eta Kosovo bidean martxan jarri nintzen…


PD. Greziara iritsi ezkeroz  Aneren bixita alde batetik eta lagun eta familiari bixitak direla eta  ordenagailua erabat baztertuta eduki det. Saiatuko naiz Turkiara iritsi aurretik  dena eguneratzen!


2014(e)ko uztailaren 4(a), ostirala

Bosnia ENGLISH

The Balkan war brought lots of casualties to Bosnia, the country has three ethnic groups; Bosniak or Muslims account for about half of the population, orthodox Serbs 35% and the rest are Catholic Croats.

After the war in 1995 a peace treaty was signed in Dayton (USA), dividing the country in two: the Croat-Bosniak federation on one hand and the Serbs republic on the other. This has stopped violence but from my experience the parties are still very divided.

The old brigde of Mostar was reopened in 2001, but city remains ethnically divided. Education is still segregated, each group has it's own post office... This felt really strange as all groups were always very kind to me.

Bosnia also had some outstanding nature, big mountains and rivers with some narrow, almost claustrophobic valleys. Shame the weather didn't help while I was there.

I'll try to make a video of Serbia next.

Regards from Macedonia,








Bosnia english from lander on Vimeo.

Bosnia EUSKARAZ

Kaixo,

 Bosnian izan nintzenetik egun batzuk pasa dira,baino tarte bat hartu det hango goraberekin bideo txiki bat egiteko.

Balkanetako gerrak heriotz asko ekarri zituen inguru onetara. Hiru talde bizi dira bertan, biztanleriaren erdia Bosnio edo musulmanak dira, %35-a Serbiar ortodoxoak eta gainentzekoak Kroaziar katolikoak. Gerra ondoren, 1995ean, Dayton-eko akodioa sinatu zen lurraldea bitan banatuz, alde batetik Bosnio-Kroaziar federazioa eta beste aldetik Serbiarren errepublika sortu zuten. Akordio oni esker pakea mantentzea lortu duten arren hiru taldeen artean banaketa haundia nabari da.

Adibidez Mostarren gerran puskatutako zubia berreraikitzea ez da nahikoa izan hirian Kroata eta Bosnioak gerturatzeko. Talde bakoitzak bere eskolak, posta-etxea, mugikor sareak ditu... hiri batean bi herrialde dauden sentsazioarekin geratu nintzen. Beraien arteko goraberak alde batera utzita, Bosnia baso, ibai eta mendi ikusgarriz betetan dago eta balkenateako beste herrialdeetan bezela, jendea beti prest laguntzeko.

 Hurrengo geldialdian Serbiako bideoa egingo det.

Ordurarte besarkada bat macedoniatik
Bosnia euskeraz from lander on Vimeo.

2014(e)ko ekainaren 19(a), osteguna

Croatia ENGLISH

Hi,

 While cycling in Croatia, good weather on one hand and the beautiful scenery on the other kept me away from the computer, now I'm in Bosnia where the scenery unlike the weather continues being beautiful...perfect time to spend some time editing videos!

 Currently in Visegrad, a small town in eastern Bosnia just 5km away from the Serbian border. Bosnia shares a complex history along with its ex-Yugoslav neighbours. People are still divided and don't feel much sympathy towards each other, however it is an interesting place to visit with an amazing landscape.

 I'll try to make a video soon so I can share what I've seen in these beautiful country.

 Cheers

kroazia English from lander on Vimeo.