Itsaso Beltzan barrrena

Iadanik hiru aste igaro dira Ane agurtu eta Istanbul atzean utzi nuenetik, bitartean turkia iparraldean dagoen Itsaso beltzeko kostari jarraituz ekialdeko Trabzon hiriraino iritsi naiz.

 Orain arte bidaiari gutxi topatu baditut denak itsaso beltzea zai neuzkalako izango zen, konpainia ezin hobean ibili naiz Joe eta Carmen britaniarrekin eta Basaurikoa den Alberto eta bere emazte Veronika lituaniarrarekin . Itsaso beltzeko kosta  oso menditsua da eta gainera Euskal Herriaren antzera euria oso maiz egiten du, halare hemendik gogoan emango dudana, zalantzarik gabe, bertako jendearen abegikortasuna izango da; egunean tea edateko hamaika gonbidapen izan ditugu eta beraien etxetara ongietorri gaituzte. 

Orain Iraneko bisadoa lortu nahian nabil, Trabzonen, normalean egun berean ematen dute baino  momentuan ez dute bisadorik egiten eta astelehenean itzuli beharra daukat. Bestalde Pamir mendikatea gurutzatzeko ametsa beste baterako uztea erabaki det, negua gainean dela oso zaila eta gogorra izango litzateke da eta hemendik aurrera ibilbide hau jarraitzea erabaki det: Georgia, Armenia, Iran, Arabiar Emirerri batuak, Oman, India... Fernando eta Veronika ere antzeko bidean doaz eta zihurrenik tarteka elkartuz joango gara.

Hemendik turkian egindako lagun berriei eskerrak eman nahi dizkiet, bereziki Ali, Ergun, Yasin, Murat, Yetkin eta azkenik Yalcin eta Ayvaz familiei. 

Hurrenarte!

PD. Ibilbideko sekzioan mapa berri bat sortu det, hemendik aurrera akanpaatzen deten toki bakoitzean argaazki bat atera eta bertan eguneratzen joango naiz, http://trackmytour.com/wHQft#611495

Hona hemen bideoa:

Itsaso beltza EUSKARAZ from lander on Vimeo.

Along the black sea

It's been three weeks since Ane returned home and I left Istanbul, following the black sea I cycled all the way to Trabzon.

The first few days where hard, my body had become lazy and after been in good company for month and a half it was time to continue on my own. Luckily I met Carmen and Joe whom I shared the road with for few days, together we had a chance to taste some of the best Turkish hospitality. We've been invited for tea on countless occasions and there have many times when people have welcomed to their homes too, no words can describe the kindness of Turkish people!

Carmen and Joe were on a tight schedule due to visa entry deadlines so it was fun to push ourselves over the steep roads of the black sea, unfortunately we have planned different routes and had to say goodbye in Trabzon. Now I'm cycling with Fernando and Veronika, a spanish-lithuanian couple, we plan to follow similar routes for some time so will probably share the road for a while (as winter is approaching decided that is not a good idea to go to the Pamir mountains and will head south instead). That will be if we manage to pick an Iranian visa, Trabzon has reputation to be one of the easiest place to get one but so far we've been told to return to the embassy a week later...

I'll let you know how we get on.

I'd like to thank you all the people who have helped us along the black sea, special mention to Ali, Ergun, Yasin, Murat, Yetkin and finally to Yalcin eta Ayvaz families.

PS. I've started using a new app to update the route, I'll be uploading waypoints with pictures along the road, just click on the waypoints and it will open up a page.

 Video:

Black Sea ENGLISH from lander on Vimeo.

Azkenik Turkian!

Ederki kostata baina halako batean famili eta lagunak agurtuta Grezia kontinentala atzea utzi eta Tukiako kostatik oso gertu dagoen Chios irlara bidaitu genuen. Irla ez da oso turistikoa eta bitxikeri bezela bertako  Mastija  zuhaitzak dira, munduan beste inon hazten ez direnak (gozogintzan, txiklea eta likorea egiteko erabiltzen da batez ere). Irlara juteko arrazoi nagusia Grezi eta Turkia arteko ferri konexio falta izan zen, halere behin bertara iritsita egun pare batean buelta heman genion ezagunenak diren Pyrgo eta Mesta herriak bixitatuz. 

Ia itzulia bukatzear geudela aldapa gora gindoazela ia lurrera erori nintzen; pedaleko biela bitan puskatu zitzaidan zutik nijoala!! Nolabait hiribururarte geratzen ziren 12km-ak hanka batekin eraginez egin eta biela berri baten bila hasi ginen.  

Chiosen aurkitu ez genuenez, beste itsasontzi txiki bat hartu eta 30minutuko ibilbidea eginez Turkiako Cesme herrira iritsi ginen, 6.800km egin ondoren azkenik asian!! Hemen ere ez genuen zorterik izan pieza aurkitzen eta gaueko autobusa hartu eta zuzenean Istanbulera jutea erabaki genuen. Turkiako autobusekin harrituta geratu ginen, eserleku bakoitzak bere tableta zuen interneteko konexio ta guzti eta gainera bidean izozkiak atera zizkiguten, a ze zerbitzua!!

Behin Estanbulera iritsita ez genuen arazorik izan bizikleta konpontzeko,  bertako warmshowers-eko kideetaz baliatuz, Bugra-ren etxea egun bat eta Alirenean beste egun batzuk pasaz hiria ezagutzeko aukera ederra izan degu. Bertako jendea ere oso atsegina da baino "gaizki ulertu" bat izan genuen ilea moztera joanda, Estanbul hiri haundi eta turistiko izanik normala dela suposatzen det, WS-ko gure lagunak bikain portatu dira eta zihur nago bidean aurrera joan ahala bera bezelako jende asko topatuko degula. Hemendik eskerrak heman nahi dizkiegu Ali eta Bugra-ri berain laguntza guztiagatik. 

Eta eskerrak batez ere Aneri, azken hilabete ta erdi ontan bidailagun ezin hobea izan delako, zoritxarren itzultzeko garaia iritsi zaio eta atzo aireportura lagundu eta agurtu ginen. Berari eskerrak berriz indarberriturik nago bideari ekiteko.

Bihar goizean Estabuletik atera eta Itsaso beltzeko kostari jarraituz ekialderuntz abiatuko naiz.

Hona hemen azken bideoa:

Atenas-Estanbul EUSKARAZ from lander on Vimeo.

Finally in Turkey!

After spending over a month in mainland Greece we took a ferry to Chios Island, we had no special interest in visiting this island but since there are direct sea connection between Greece and Turkey we choose Chios for its "northerly" location. The island itself is not very touristy and it's better known for the Mastic trees that   grow only in there (its resin is used to make sweets, chewing gums, liqueurs, etc.). We decided to explore the island a bit touring around for two days, we really liked the towns of Pyrgi and Mesta with its unique architectural style. 

As we were nearing the end of our island tour my pedals started developing a strange noise, after a quick visual inspection, seeing nothing wrong we continued our way. Shortly after a while as I was standing I heard a "crack" sound and  mi right foot missed the pedal; the crank snapped across the pedal thread!! From that point "skateboard style pushing" and one leg pedalling took us to Chios capital with was just 12km away.  

Having no luck in finding a replacement we booked a ferry to the Turkish town of Cesme. Unfortunately no luck there either so after hesitating we decided to take a bus all the way to Istanbul. Despite not being a fan of bus travelling have to admit that we were really impressed with Turkish buses, each seat had a tablet with internet connection and they even gave us ice cream!!

Arriving to a city like Istanbul is always stressful, all the stories about the horrendous traffic were true but thanks to our mobile maps we managed to take a less conventional route to the bike shop. We were really well looked after at Gesgini bikes, they had the right part and Rahman gave thorough check to the bike.

An once again people from WS community helped us, Bugra and Ali were really helpful via email and they helped me locating the right bike shop as well as offering accommodation in their homes. We spent a night with Bugra who took us to drink beer with his friends whom we had interesting conversation about Basque and Turkish culture and politics. The we moved to Alis place where we spent several days, he has been a great host making us feel comfortable and as he is a very good with electronics he even fixed my phone!!

We spend these days sightseeing Istanbul, we really liked the city and apart from one incident at hairdressers we had a great time (despite my comment on the video about Turkish people 99% of them have been really helpful and kind).

Unfortunately time was up for Ane and yesterday she flew home, I want to thank her from here for the fantastic month and a have I spent with her, now I'm ready to hit the road again!

Thanks also to Bugra and Ali for all their help.

Now the plan is to follow the Black sea all the way to Iran.

Video:

Athens- Istanbul ENGLISH from lander on Vimeo.

Grezia EUSKARAZ

Kaixo,

Albaniatik greziako iparraldera iristean jendea bide ertzetatik desagertu eta bero bortitzak agerraldia egin zuen. Ala ere, iritsi eta lehenego egunean Kaloneri izeneko herri batean trago bat hartu eta wifi-ra konektatzeko geldialdia egin nunean, Valantisek bere tabernan lotan geratzea eskeini zidan. Lo askorik ez nuen egin  gau hartan, herriko festak ziren eta bere lagunekin Safiris Melas (grezian oso ezaguna den abeslari bat) entzutera joan eta garagardo eta retsina artean goizeko 5ak eman zizkiguten erretiratzerako.

Hurrengo 3 egunak, zalantzarik gabe bidaieko gogorrenak izan ziren. Lo falta alde batetik eta 40ºC-ko tenperaturak bestetik bizikletaz asko ez gozatzea eragin zidan. Hala ere, disfrutatzen jarratzeko modua aurkitu nuen goizean goiz hasi eta eguerdiko ordu beroenetan deskantsatuz. Horrela, Atenasera iritsi eta Anekin elkartu nintzen eta biok batera osaba-izebakin egun polit batzuk pasa ondoren, beraiek oparitutako 2 eguneko tour-a egin genuen Delfos eta Meteora barrena. 

Bidai hau bukatzerako irrikitan geuden biok bizikletekin martxan jarri eta aurreko egunetan jandako feta gazta guztia erretzeko.  Pixkanaka, Atenas atzean utzita, Korintoko kanala gurutzatuz Peloponesoko itzuliari ekin genion. Nafplio eta Esparta bisitatu ondoren, 30 biztanleko Melissa izeneko herrira iritsi ginen, bertan Sotiris eta Evirekin astebete zoragarria pasatzeko aukera izan genuen.

Toki turistikoak ikusteaz gain, beraiekin bertako bizimodua nolakoa den ikasteko aukera izan genuen (eztia, oliba olioa eta beste hainbat produktu modu ekologikoan ekoizten baitituzte). Melissatik, inguruko beste herri batera joan ginen, Arna. Bertan, beste lagun bat zegoen gure zain, Panos. Mutil oso mendizalea denez, hondatzak ikusteaz gain, beste proposamen bat egin zigun : Peloponesoko gailurrik altuenera igo (Taygetos 2407m) eta bertan gaua pasatzea, eta nola ez, guk ein izan genuen ezetz esan.  

Grezian material asko pilatu dugunez, gaurkoan zati bat eta hurrengoan beste guztia argitaratuko dugu.

Grezia EUSKARAZ from lander on Vimeo.

Greece ENGLISH

When I crossed the Albanian-Greek border the first main difference I noticed was that the people working on the roadside suddenly disappeared. As I rode south the temperatures got increasingly hot making it for a reeally unpleasant ride. 

The quietness of the day changed when I met Valentis in my first night in Greece, he owns a cafe in a village called Kaloneri, when I asked for a suitable camping spot he immediately offered me  a place to crash in his bar. As it happens Kaloneri was celebrating it's saint and the whole town was having a big party in the town square, people from all ages dancing the songs of Zafiris Melas while having some glasses of the popular retsina wine. With very little sleep and slightly hangover, I thanked Valentis for his generosity and continued towards Athens.

In Athens I meet my girlfriend Ane and together spent few days with my family, my uncle and Auntie treated us to a bus tour to Delphi and Meteora which we really enjoyed. Once the tour was over we were eager to start cycling together, slowly leaving the busy city of Athens behind, crossing the Corinthian channel we went into Peloponnese peninsula. We visited Nafplio, Sparta and then stopped at Sotiris and Evi’s house in Melissa, We spent nearly a week with them, they took us to Mani and cape Tenaro as well as some amazing beaches. They both work hard in the farm producing bio olive oil and honey, it was very interesting to see how all is done, now we'll need to volunteer for a whole season picking olives to pay back all they have given to us!!

From Melissa we went to a nearby village called Arna which is famous for having one of the biggest platanus tree in Greece. There we meet Panos (a hiking enthusiast) and went up to mount Taygetos, the highest peak in Peloponnese (2.407m), we slept in the peak and had a chance to witness one of the best sunsets I've ever seen. 

As we have spent over a month in Greece we plan to make another video, here you have the first part:

Grezia ENGLISH from lander on Vimeo.

Kosovo- Albania EUSKARAZ

Jendearen aholkatutakoari kaso gehieegi egin gabe, hegoaldera bidean Kosovo eta Albania gurutzatu nituen. 

Bi herrialdeak eta batez ere Albania, bidaia honetako tokirik interesgarrienak izan direla esango nuke. Toki behartsuak izanik errekurtso exkaxak dauzkate eta lurra euskal herrian duela 50-60 urte lantzen zen modu berean (asto eta mandoen laguntzarekin baliatuz) egiten dute. Lotako toki lasai eta izkutua bilatzea etzen erreza,  jendea goizean eguzkia ateratzen zen unetik iluntzerarte lanean aritrzen baitzen. Halere baimena eskatuta ez nuen arazorik izan eta batek baino gehiagok gonbidatu ninduen beraien etxean lo egitera.

Atenasera iristeko presak bultzata nahi baino azkarrago igaro nituen bi herrialde hauek baino zihur nago etorkizunean itzuliko naizela toki zoragarriak baitira.

Ona hemen bertako bideoa:

kosovo albania EUSKARAZ from lander on Vimeo.