AEB. eta Oman EUSKARAZ

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Iranen ezagututako Thomas txirrindulari alemaniarra lagun nuela Bandar abbas-en Iran agurtu eta ferri bidez iritsi ginen Arabiar Emirerrri batuetara. Nahiz eta hasiera batean bertatik pasatzeko asmorik ez izan, neguko eguraldi hotzak bultzatuta hegoalderuntz joatea zen aukerarik onena, horrelaxe, eguzki goxopean eman ziguten ongietorria emirerriek,  bideko 19 garren herrialdea izanik neretzat.

Itsasuntzian portura gerturatu ahala Dubaiko "skyline-a" begibistan agertu zen, Thomasek eta nik hau etzela gure herrialderik gogokoena izango komentatu genuen. Zorionez, Scott Australiarrak (Warm showers-ko kide denak) bere etxean onartu gintuen, geroago esango zigun bezala ez du inoiz txirrindulari batengatik datorren eskaerarik ukatu. Bere eskuzabaltasunaren ondorioz zazpi txirrindulari elkartu ginen bere etxean bidaiko asterik onenetakoa igaroz bertan. Irandik etorrita asko eskertu genuen astebete lasai alperkerin igarotzea. Dubai erdialdera ere bixita pare bat egin genituen, bertako bizimodu azeleratuak Inglaterran bizi izan nintzeneko garaiak ekarri zizkidan gogora. Nere ikuspuntitik, Dubai jendea lan egin eta dirua aurreztera etortzen den toki bat da, behin lana utzi edo bukatutakoan ezinezkoa da bertan geratzea, beraz, bertakoak diren arabiarren %10 kenduta, gainerako langile guztiak lehenago edo geroago, herrialdea utzi beharra daukate. Bertan bizi direnen artean Mikel Tolosarra eta bere familia ezagutzeko aukera izan nuen, jadanik urtebete daramate bertan eta oso interesgarria izan zen beraien experientzia bertatik ezagutzea, gainera bidean indarrik ez faltatzeko  Mikelek afari eder batera gonbidatu ninduen, eskerrikasko!

Dubaiko egonaldia amaitutzat eman eta Omanera bidean martxan jarri orduko, biadaiko best ezuste polit horietako bat izan genuen, Piet Belgiar txirrindulariak autobidean geratu eta bere ondartza ondoko etxera juteko gonbidapena luzatu zigun... azkenean beste hiru egun igaro ziren bizikleta berriz hartu arte.

Emirerrietako basamortua ondartsuak gurutzatu ondoren, lehenogo aldiz Omango mendi harritsual begibistan agertu ziren eta ez mendiak bakarrik, Iranen bidailagun izan nituen Fernando eta Veronika ere bai! Laurok batera muga gurutzatu eta furgonetan bizi diren"Iran is great" proiektuko, Ivan, Audrey, Lukas eta Emilia-rekin familiarekin ondartzan akanpatu genuen. Beraieen Iranekiko maitasun istorioa lapurreta batekin hasi zen, furgonetatik dokumentu guztiak lapurtu ondoren  erantzuna horren positiboa izan zen, munduari bertan bizitakoa kontatzeko beharra sentitu zutela.

Familia agurtuta kosta alde batera utzi eta mendi aldera jo genuen, bertako jendeak esan zigun etzirela bizikletan ibiltzeko moduko aldapak, gutxiago alforjaz kargatuta, baino motobazio izugarria genuenez gu geurera... zaila da nolako aldapak igo behar izan genituen azaltzea, Omango ingenieriek errepideak eraikitzeko garaian "bi puntuen arteko distantziarik motxena marrazuzena dala" oso serio hartu zuten, ondorioz %30-eko aldapa itzelak nonnahi aurki daitezke. Alpadak pasata esan beharra daukat Oman asko gustatu zitzaidala, emirerriek ez bezela tradizioak mantentzen saiatu dira eta herrialde musulmandar guztietan bezela ongietorria sentitu nintzen. Iluntzero mezkitan dutxatu eta inguruan akanpatzen genuen, ondoren herritarrak gerturatu eta ongietorriarekin batera fruitu eta datilak eskeintzen zizkiguten.

Menditik hiriburura, Muscatera, joan behar izan nuen Indiako bisadoa tramitatzera, Richel eta bere lagun Filipindarrenkin egon ginen, lagun giroan mendiko nekeaz errekuperatuz.

Orain indian nabil, Goan zehazki, herrialde ero honetako aniztasunaz gozatzen eta Omango pakea faltan botaz. Besarkada haundi bat bidaltzen dizuet bertatik!

Eta noski beti bezela hemen doa bideo txiki bat:

AEB eta Oman EUSKARAZ from lander on Vimeo.

UAE & Oman ENGLISH

 Bandar Abbas was the ending point of Iran for Thomas and me, an overnight ferry took us across the disputed Persian gulf (for some it’s called the Arabian gulf) in to the Emirates. We landed in a modern and busy city, its pace reminded me very much of the UK.  Luckily for us though, we managed to find a quiet place to stay, once more the wonderful warmshowers community helped us, this time it was Scott, an Aussie teacher that "never says no to a cyclist" and as a consequence the house was full of cyclists (as many as seven at a time), together we enjoyed one of the best weeks of the trip so far.

Despite the emirates not being the kind of country I look for touring, I have to admit that it was much better than I thought. With a local population of just over 10% we didn't meet any locals, however we did meet many interesting people: Mikel and his family for example, we didn't know each other before but coming from the same town was a good excuse to meet, I enjoyed a nice evening with him and he invited for a nice dinner so I could keep my strength for cycling. We also met Mary, a Keralan journalist that curious about our trips decided to host us, cooked a delicious meal and even took a day off to show us around Dubai or Piet and Ann from Belgium that stopped us on the motorway on our way to Oman extending our stay in Dubai for two more days. Unexpectedly (as most things are when you travel) the emirates turned to be a great experience thanks to all the interesting people we'd met!

After saying goodbye to all our new friends we finally set off towards Oman, just before the border another surprise awaited us, we bumped into Fernando and Veronica, Thomas could not hide his excitement and run into them shouting and jumping. Together we crossed the border and spend the first evening around a nice campfire. On the following day we had an opportunity to meet a very special family, Ivan, Audrey, Lucas and Emily have been living in a camper van for some time, the van has a big banner on the side stating "Iran is great", as we would learn later, their love story with Iran began when someone broke into the van and stole all documents. The Iranians helped them so much that they decided to promote the country to show their gratitude.

 After enjoying their company for couple of days we were ready to hit the mountains...or not? In Oman when building roads they apply the technique of "shortest distance between two point is a straight line" this saves lots of tarmac but is not good news for cyclists,  30%+ gradients which were nearly impossible to cycle up with a loaded bike.

 Hills aside, Oman is actually a great country for cycling, unlike the emirates they've preserved their unique culture and day after day they allowed us to shower in the mosques and camp nearby. All this was followed by a delivery of food, usually dates and fruit.

The last week we went to Muscat to process the Indian visa, Richel and her filipino friends hosted us in their apartment. They were most helpful and friendly, along with Ivan and his dog Diesel, we visited Wadi Shab and had proper chicken adobo to celebrate Richel's birthday.

Now in Goa, India, enjoying the variety of this beautiful country but missing the quietness of Oman.

As usual I edited a short video, cheers!

UAE & Oman ENGLISH from lander on Vimeo.

Khoda Hafez Iran! EUSKARAZ

Iparraldeko muga hura gurutzatu ezkeroz bi hilabete ta erdi, 3000km eta beste hainbeste topaketa eta esperientzia bizitzeko aukera luzatu dit herrialde liluragarri honek. Bertako kultura anitza, ospakizun eta paisaia menditsu ederrak  arrazoi ederra dira hona etortzeko, baino neretzat zalantzarik gabe herrialde hau bidaiatzeko besteez gain jartzen duena bertako jendea da.

Gaurkoan bideo txiki bat prestatu det, ezagutu eta egin ditudan lagun guztiak agertzea zaila denez bideoaz gain argazki albun txiki bat sortuko det aurrerago.

Sharjah-ko Scott-en etxean astebete igaro ta gero bihar berriz ere martxan jarriko naiz Omanera bidean.

Laisterarte

Iran Euskaraz from lander on Vimeo.

Khoda Hafez Iran! ENGLISH

Extremely happy and full of energy, thats how I feel after travelling for two and a half months in this fascinating country. Almost every km of the 3000km I have cycled there have provided a new encounter. It not it's beautifully rugged and mountainous landscape or it's ancient culture what has got me "hooked" to the country, the wonderful and hospitable Iranian people  are the ones to "blame" for this.

This video doesn't make justice to all the great people that helped me along the way, because of that I will create a photo album  very soon, hope you enjoy the video.

After a week at Scott's house in Sharjah tomorrow I'll set off again towards Oman.

Iran English from lander on Vimeo.